Cavall Bernat – Punsola Reniu 6C+
Fully equipped multipitch
Cavall Bernat is probably the most iconic climb in Montserrat. There are several multipitch routes that vary from hard (8a+) to easy (5b) and they are between 7 and 3 pitches long. We opted for Punsola Reniu (6b+) on the north side of Cavall Berant.
To get to the north side you can park at the Monastery Santa Cecilia and walk from there. The approach time is about 50 minutes. The approach is obvious as you can see the Cavall Bernat along the way.
The place was busier than we expected. 6 other climbers started Punsola Reniu before us and another 6 people were opting for the nearby La Gran Ilusió (7a+).
The route starts very moderate. The first pitch (grade 3) is extremely easy but not equipped. The next two pitches are graded 4+ (50 meters) and 5+, then 6a, 6c, 6c+, and 6a. The 6c routes are extremely slippery but the bolts are extremely close together (only about 1 mt. between bolts).
To get down it’s recommendable to rappel down the much shorter Via Normal on the south side of Cavall Bernat.
We weren’t able to do that. The route was so busy in the morning, so we started our climb in the afternoon and by the time we got to the last pitch, it was completely dark and we couldn’t find the bolts anymore. So we had to turn back.
Penya del Moro (Begues – Torrelles de Llobregat)
This is a nice rock climbing spot for a day trip near Barcelona. The car ride takes about 1 hour. The last 30 minutes lead along a challenging dirt road. The rock is the same as in Vallirana (calcareous). Most grades range from 5 to 7a. The topos can be found in the Climbing Around app
Climbing El Grau dels Matxos
El Grau dels Matxos is a supercool climbing spot (one of my favorites) about 40-50 minutes drive from Barcelona. There are more than 170 routes for all tastes and skill levels. We climbed Andrex 6a, Tuareg 6a+, Skins 6b & King of Kongs 6b+ (both supernice routes!) and Torchwood 6c (also supernice, very recommended). Another couple of routes that I highly recommend are (if you like slabs) Piano Piano 7a and L’escarbat copulador 6b.
El Vermell del Xincarró – Rock Climbing in Montserrat (El Bruc)
This is an awesome climbing spot close to el Bruc. Pictures are from Vermell derecha (right side), routes 20-44.
Grades range from 5+ to 8b.
La Palomera (Montserrat – El Bruc)
This is another supernice climbing sector in Montserrat. The only downside is the quite long walk from the parking (Aparcament de Can Jorba). The walk takes about 40 minutes uphill. If you have to carry the rope and stuff, it’s a quite hard walk especially in the summer. The climbing routes are typical for Montserrat, vertical conglomerate. The routes range from 5 to 6c.
Serra de Rubió – Les Pucetes (Olesa de Montserrat)
This is a small sector very close to Montserrat. Routes range from 4+ to 6c. There are a few nice climbs but on some routes you will find cords instead of bolds. For that reason, we avoided some climbs.
Garraf Platja – Rock climbing by the Mediterranean sea
If you are looking for a place for rock climbing close to Barcelona, by the sea, and that’s accessible by train: Garraf Platja is the place for.
You can get there by train (30 Minutes from Sants Central Station). When you get to the beach in Garraf turn right, walk passed the harbor, turn right again, walk through the tunnel, after the tunnel just follow the dirt road up the hill and there you are.
There are three climbing zones: El Coti (5-6c), El pas de la mala dona (5-8a), and El Balcó del Teixi (5-8a).
Routes are available in Climb Around (http://climbaround.com/app/).
Solius – Costa Brava
This amazing rock climbing area is located in Girona not far from Sant Feliu de Guíxols, a 1 hour drive from Barcelona. The rock is granite.
Les Escletxes del Papiol
Another great rock climbing spot within 30 minutes from Barcelona and that can be reached by train is El Papiol. It’s for all skill levels.
It’s perfect for the summer months because there is shade all day long. The rocks are quite slippery though.
You can find the names and grades of most routes at the bottom of every route. You can also have a look at them here.
PENYA GINESTA – ROCK CLIMBING A STONE THROW AWAY FROM BARCELONA
Penya Ginesta is a popular rock climbing spot located in Garraf natural park southwest of Barcelona only a 30 minutes car drive away.
Climbing grades range from as low as 3 up to 6c which makes it perfect for beginners as well as intermediate level climbers.
From top of the rocks you’ll get amazing views at Castelldefels and the Mediterranean Sea.
1 = Human Fables (V+); 2 = Fraguel Rock (6b); 3 = Nospot (7a); 4 = The secret of the wine (7a); 5 = And now what (6c); 6 = Que Morro (6b); 7 = Hurting the finger (6a); 8 = Tremendous Delirium (6a+); 9 = Lalu (6c); 10 = The prisoners are coming (6b); 11 = Pedro (IV); 12 = Pepi I (V+); 13 = Vico 1 (V/6a); 14 = The children of Burkina Faso (6b); 15 = Gavatxo (6c); 16 = Mediterranean (V); 17 = Buscu Shunt (6a+); 18 = Artifo; 19 = Marta (7a); 20 = Gargol teu banya (6c+); 21 = Zoe 1 (V+); 22 = Andromeda prelude (6a/6b); 23 = Zoe 2 (V+); 24 = Raticulín (V); 26 = Zoe 3 (V); 27 = Plain (V); 28 = It’s not normal anymore (IV); 29 = Normal (IV); 30 = To start with (III); 31 = The next one (III); Don´t touch the edge (III).
Subirats is another popular rock climbing spot about 1 hour by car from Plaça Catalunya. Climbing grades range from 4 to 7a. The area offers amazing views at the surrounding natural park and the Subirats Castel.
You can find the tops of all 4 sectors in the Climbaround App and below.
La Facu is a rock climbing spot between Sitges and Vilafranca del Penedès. La Facu is perfect for beginners. All routes, except for one 6c, are graded between IV and 6a.
Berga – Mirador de Garreta
This absolutely amazing climbing spot close to the monastery Santuary de Queralt is only about a 1 hour drive from Barcelona. The surroundings are beautiful.
You can park at the monastry and from there it’s only about a 15 minutes walk to the wall (mirador de la Garreta). There is a restaurant in the monastry were you can get a snack and Alhambra beer 🙂 And the area is great for hiking.
There are 26 sport climbing routes and 1 multipitch route (6a, 5, 6a). The climbing is very easy (4 – 6b). It’s the perfect place for a relaxed day!
MULTIPITCH: VIA QUERALTINA
MULTIPITCH: VIA Quercus
Fully equipped multipitch
Grade: 4+ or 5
Plecs de la Vinya Nova – Multipitch in Montserrat
Fully equipped multipitch
Plecs de la Vinya Nova is a great sector if you are looking for a variety of easy multipitch routes (5-6a). We chose to do GEM (6a+, 160 meters, 4 pitches, fully equipped). We didn’t find any anchor on top so we used a tree. To get down it’s best to rappel the neighbouring route Urquiza Olmo because the anchors of Urquiza Olmo are equipped with rings for rappeling.
The sector can be reached from the Vinya Nova restaurant where you can park you car. The walk takes about 1 hour.
BTW, the Vinya Nova restaurant is a great place to have a beer or lunch. They have a huge terrace with great views and self service. You can bring your own food or get something from the bar.
Via 98 Octanos 6A Multipitch (Los Gorros – Montserrat Norte)
Fully equipped multipitch
This classical multipitch route is located at Los Gorros (Magdalena Superior – see picture). It’s a one hour walk from the Monasterio de Montserrat. You can get there by taking the Camino Circular de Sant Jeroni. The reverse path direction (via de Funicular de San Joan station) is a little closer. You could also take the funicular to avoid the 45 minutes walk. From the Funicular station walk down and follow the Sant Jeroni trail for about 15 minutes. All the routes can be accessed easily from the hiking trail.
98 Octanos has 4 pitches (3+, 4+, 6a, 4+). We did the route at the end of November which is not exactly the best time to do it. The rock was icecold, it was superwindy and the 6a pitch felt quite slippery. The holds are really good but it’s better to do this climb in the spring or summer. In general, north walls in Montserrat are not the best option in cold weather.
La Falconera (Southside) – Garraf Platja
This is an awesome spot superclose to Barcelona for multipitching. You can take the train from Sants to Garraf Platja. The train leaves every 30 minutes and takes 30 minutes.
The multipitches are perfect for sunny winter days. You’ll have sun all day and the most amazing views at the sea. Most routes you can see on the topos below are fully equipped except for Mojito pal nenito & Sweet home buenos aires.
1) Via Gaudi (V+, 2 pitches) + Via El Vuelo del Jigero (6a+, 2 pitches). Fully equipped. Can be rappeled.
2) Via Piset (V+, 3 pitches) + Via La Dama de Piedra (6a, 1 pitch). Via Piset starts on the edge of the wall just beside the ocean. The first bold is about 2 meters to the right of a sign saying “climbing on the right hand side or above this sign is not permitted from January to May”. We thought Via Piset was fully equipped but it didn’t seem so. Especially the beginning of the first pitch which is quite athletic is missing bolds. Also the beginning of the 2nd pitch is very athletic but has enough bolds. The beginning of the second pitch felt more like a 6a than a V+ to me. Some bolds and ankers are extremely rusty. The views are spectacular but the route itself didn’t feel too save. Via La Dama de Piedra, on the other hand, is a supernice, fully equipped slab and highly recommended. Via La Dama de Piedra can be rappeled and from there you can rappel Via Gaudi or Via Bavaresa.
Les Casetes de Vallirana
Topos can be found in the climb around app: http://climbaround.com/zonas/alrededores-barcelona/
There are over a 100 climbing routes: Grades 5-6b (Casetes East), Grades 6b-7b+ (Casetes West).