Only a 2 hours drive away from Barcelona, Siurana is a paradise for sport climbers and one of the top destination crags in the world.
The limestone cliffs surrounding the idyllic hilltop village of Siurana are of excellent quality and known for their thin, technical lines with incut pockets and sharp edges.
Siurana probably is Europe’s most known sport climbing destination with over 1.500 routes suitable for all levels. The topos for Siurana and surrounding areas (like Arbolí) can be found in the Climbaround App (http://climbaround.com/ )
Sector Grau dels Masets Esquerra
Very recommendable sector. 15 mimutes walk from the parking (see map below). Supernice views and there’s a spectacular slack line on the way (Grau dels Masets Camí).
Arnau (6a+): Nice route to warm up, not slippery like some other routes in the sector (e.g. Super fisura (5+) and Super esperó (6b)
Es algo (7a): I found it to be a quite hard 7a, very nice to climb though with one especially hard move halfway through.
Arbre (6c+): Very recommendable, extremely hard start, a hold might have broken off at the beginning but after that the route is supernice.
Piu piu (6b): Next to Arbre, also recommendable.
Maria Lluisa (6a+): Nice route to warm up.
Arrebato (6b): Ok climb, I guess. Didn’t really stick in my mind.
Money for nothing (7a): Consistently hard 7a, at least to me. Not something I want to project or repeat.
El retorn de Francolins L1 (6c+): We finished with this route. We wanted to do the second pitch as well but did not continue after L1 because there were only 3 bolts on the 20 meter route and we didn’t bring cams. The route was nice to climb, not a 6c+ though, more like a 6a. It seems not many people had climbed the route before. There’s grass on the rock and some parts are loose and sandy.
Sector Can Toni Gros
Estrany Parany (6b): Nice recommendable warm-up.
Poll remullat (6b): Also nice warm-up.
Antaviana (6c+): Liked it a lot, consistent difficulty, very recommendable.
Demà als innocents (7a+): Found it very hard but nice climb.
Sector El Cargol & L’esperó Primavera
El Cargolet (6a): Supernice recommendable warm-up.
Purgandus populus L1 (6a) L2 (7a): Starts with a very nice easy first pitch. The second pitch is much harder: a supernice face climb that finishes with an overhang.
Ari-zona (6c): Very recommendable, short route but supernice.
Marieta de l’ull viu (6a+): Last route of the day. Nice 6a+ with one tricky move.
Sector Ca l’auep & L’ermita (Arbolí)
La sabineta (6a): This is the only route we climbed in this sector. We didn’t really like the crack.
Nice crack. We parked in Arbolí and walked up to L’ermita. The path is marked. You just need to follow the L’ermita signs.
El Pulgar sí tu (6b): An ok climb. Very fast climb and unspectacular. Very easy. Don’t think it’s anywhere close to a 6b.
Baba-res (6c+): Nice climb with 2 hard moves (one at the very beginning and one just before the anchor.
Seiduna (6b+): Face climb. Very recommendable.